Great Runs Trip Report: Running in Normandy

Great Runs just completed a wonderful European trip. The first week was a cycling trip in the Netherlands, and then two exploring Normandy and Brittany, mainly in the coastal areas. Lots of time cycling, walking, hiking, and running!  We’ve put together separate posts for each of the three segments.

Normandy Running Guide

We were mainly along the Normandy coast, between Granville and Etretat, dipping inland to Bayeux and on a couple of longer cycle days.  Running in Normandy is a joy, mixing gorgeous coastal routes, quiet country roads, and some lovely historic towns. Summer is a special treat for the long days and temperate weather. Here are a few tips for running in Normandy, and some favorite spots. FULL GUIDE

Coastal Running. Normandy is dotted with numerous historic coastal towns. There are lovely waterfront promenades in Granville, Honfleur, Deauville, & Dieppe.

There’s also wonderful trail running in Normandy. A highlight is the 660 km GR223 coastal path (Sentier des Douaniers), which starts in Honfleur and ends at the Mont-Saint-Michel.

Beach Running. Normandy is famous (and infamous) for its wide, expansive beaches on the English Channel. They are generally great for running, with firm, packed sand. These beaches feature some of the biggest tides in the world — runners should be aware of tide times and the ‘coefficient’.

Running in the Norman Countryside. There’s a huge network of quiet, low-trafficked country roads passing pastoral farmland and quaint villages. Note that this is rolling hill terrain, and these roads generally don’t have a sidewalk/shoulder. The best strategy for finding the prettiest and safest back roads in Normandy for running is to consult the Velo (bike route) maps, which keep you on dedicated cycle paths and scenic, quiet roads. Keep away from the ‘N’ roads and major ‘D’ roads.

A few running and scenic highlights in Normandy:

• Granville. Historic fortified town, where you can run along ancient ramparts and coastal promenades. Plus some great hills & stairs leading to Old Town.
• Mont Saint-Michel. Avoid the buses and the hordes by approaching the area on foot!  Caution: be very aware of the tides.
• Beaches. The Normandy beaches were the location of the D-Day invasion. They’re expansive, beautiful, relatively unpopulated, and fantastic for running.
• Saint-Vaaste-La-Hougue. A picturesque farm and sailing village. Nice run along the waterfront, to the lighthouse, and around the fort. At low tide, walk/run to Tatihou Island.
• Cycle Paths in the D-Day area. There are some gorgeous cycle paths above the water west of Omaha Beach featuring expansive water views and scenic countryside. Especially just east and west of Omaha Beach (see our post), and the coastal cycle path east of Port en Bessin.
• Étretat. This place has become overtouristed, BUT if you get up early, you can avoid the crowds and have a magical running experience. Easier headed east, more challening headed west.
• Le Havre. Largely destroyed in WWII, Le Havre today is a UNESCO site for its post-war urban architecture, with a master plan designed & built by the architect Auguste Perret. Our running route there hits the brutalist highlights.
• Château de Fontaine-Henry. Ruy on the grounds of the most spectacular château in Normandy, and also the surrounding countryside. Just outside Caen.

Some Other Special Normandy Experiences

• Time a run or a hike for the ‘golden light’ hour
• Follow one of the Velo routes through the countryside. There are marked loops of various lengths, which will take you on scenic, quiet roads & cycle paths. Use it to plan a bike ride, a long walk, or a run! Bayeux is a good anchor point for these routes.
• Bayeux. It’s popular with tourists, but the Cathedral and Tapestries are worth it.
• Rouen. The most interesting larger city in Normandy, and also some wonderful running!